- Which one is it
- The model number, SNS-001, is on the silver sticker underneath. The original has a cartridge eject lever, an expansion port under a small cover on the bottom, and an RF jack with a channel switch on the back. The 1997 SNS-101 has none of those. Inside, early boards split the video across two chips, and the 1995 1CHIP board merged them into one. North American 1CHIPs have serials starting UN3, but not every UN3 is one, and only opening the case proves it.
- RegionNTSC-U (North America)
- This is the NTSC North American console. Its cartridge slot has tabs that line up with grooves on US carts, so the narrower, rounded Super Famicom and PAL carts won't go in. A lockout chip in the console and in every cart also blocks PAL games. Japanese Super Famicom carts will run once the slot tabs are cut, a mod you'll see in some listings.
- Video out
- Stock, it puts out RF from the jack on the back and composite, S-video and RGB from the Multi Out port, depending on the cable. Every original-size SNES does RGB without a mod. The early two-chip boards look smeared sideways over RGB, while 1CHIP boards are much sharper but run a little too bright. The 1CHIP-03 doesn't send composite sync to the port, so it needs an RGB cable that takes sync from luma or composite. On a modern TV, composite works if the set has the input, and S-video or RGB through a scaler looks far better.
- Power
- It runs from an external AC adapter that plugs into the back. Look for Nintendo's adapter in the photos, and ask whether the plug sits snug, since a loose power connection can spoil the picture.
- Fakes and mods
- Read the listing for mods. Cut slot tabs (for Japanese carts), RGB fixes and swapped cases all turn up. A case swap also breaks the UN3 clue for a 1CHIP, because the serial sticker moves with the shell, so a seller's 1CHIP claim needs a photo of the board.
Check the listing photos against this list, and ask the seller about anything you can’t see. A missing piece should come off the price.